WHAT COLLAR SHOULD I USE?

 A well-fitting collar of a non-choking type.  The fabric type with the plastic snap-clip closure is easy on the dog’s neck and won’t slip over his head if he pulls back against it. Double check that he cannot back out of it!  It has happened to me.

If you have a "hound" type, with a long slim neck and a rather narrow skull (imagine a Greyhound) they make special "hound collars" that are wider, and that are built to constrict a little bit but only a little bit, to allow you to get it over the dog's head but keep it on the neck with just a little bit of tension.  These are a style called a "Martingale" collar,  meaning it fits on a dog's neck but tightens only a little- only enough to prevent the dog from slipping out.  

"Choke chains" and "slip leads" can choke down very tightly on a dog's neck, causing discomfort and damage to the esophagus.  We don't use those and we do not use prong/pinch collars.  If you feel like you need a prong collar to keep your dog from pulling your dog should be on a harness with a leash-clip in the chest location (not on the dog's back).  Prong collars are meant to stop pulling by causing discomfort when the dog pulls and releasing the discomfort when the dog stops pulling.  This is called "negative reinforcement" (meaning the removal of the pain is reinforcing) and we don't use that because we don't have to-- we can get the same end result with positive reinforcement applied correctly.  Negative reinforcement is designed to cause unnecessary discomfort to the animal.  Think about that. Honestly, I expect more from us trainers. 

I am also a big fan of the head halter type tools -- the Halti, the Gentle Leader, etc.  These require  some conditioning sessions to make the tool a happy thing in the dog's eyes.  Remember that these have the leash attach under the chin, and should never used when the dog is dragging a leash or long line (we don't ever want a sharp sudden pull on that connection spot, which could cause a hard turn or twist on the dog's neck).  When I was raising service dogs every puppy was taught on these head halters, because disabled people often need "power steering" with a service dog and they're great for controlling the dog's direction without needing a lot of physical strength.  

I recommend having a collar on your dog even if you use a harness or a Gentle Leader head halter, because you want something with your emergency number on it in case your dog gets loose (for example, if you are home, the harness is off, and the dog escapes... if you don't have a collar on with an emergency-number tag people can't reach you easily if they find your dog). 

USING REWARDS TO REINFORCE BEHAVIOR AND GENERATE ENTHUSIASM FOR TRAINING

 

All animals have a “price” for which they will perform—there is always something the dog will work to get.  It is called a primary reinforcer.  In your kitchen, he might do a 10-minute down-stay in exchange for a carrot piece, while in the park it might be near impossible to get his attentions with anything less than liver.  Determine which foods your dog likes best, and use them as treats during early training sessions at home.

 In seminars and group classes I often see dogs refuse plain kibble or lower quality dog cookies.  They might continue to offer the behavior, but by refusing to open their mouth for the treat they are indicating they believe their performance was worth something better.  You can practically see them rolling their eyes at you.  Sometimes they'll not take the reward because the environment is too distracting and it feels really hard to do the behavior right now.  Remember, at any moment our dogs are doing the best they can, given the training we’ve given them, and the environment they are currently in. If the better treat is never given, they quit playing, and the behavior stops being offered. They've lost their enthusiasm for training.

It is good practice to start shaping sessions with a variety of treats.  They should have assorted tastes, textures, aromas, and sizes (and you should know where each fits within the dog's perceived hierarchy of treat desirability).  You can feed a “jackpot” by strewing the pieces across the floor with theatrical flair, or you can slowly dole them out to the dog, prolonging the delight.  Reserve big (more valuable) treats for big efforts, and do a lot of tossing of food or toys when you reward (adding in that little element of chasing the reward is fun for the dog).  These varied techniques for awarding reinforcement serve to increase the dog’s interest in the trainer and to prevent him from becoming fixated on one hand, one spot location, or one treat type.

As learning progresses, treats of lesser value may be used at home while that special treat is reserved for working away from home, in the presence of distractions, or for a new behavior or harder level of an existing behavior.  As training away from home progresses, you can afford to use treats of a lower value during these sessions- because the dog has worked in this environment before, it's not as hard now and you can reserve the higher-value treats for the next level of difficulty.  Can you see why it's important to have a training plan that's explicitly and systematically raising (one at a time) the levels of distance, duration, and distraction?  If you don't know where you are on that progression of difficulty for each one, you can't do as good a job of using the various rewards as effective tools in your training program.  

 If your dog has a favorite toy, toss it after a successful training session or when he has surpassed previous levels of performance. Reserve the best toys and food for the hardest work and remember that throughout the clicker training process, you have the power to end the game if your dog is not making an effort.  Scrutinize why your dog isn’t making an effort- is the environment too much? Ending the game will be perceived as a punishment to dogs who love to train.  Instead of just ending, try to lower the difficulty and do one last instance where you are absolutely setting your dog up for success—end on a positive note. 

WHY DOES CLICKER TRAINING WORK SO WELL?

 Why does clicker training work so well? Dogs enjoy clicker training because it’s a game they find easy to win.  Because clicker training is perceived as a game that allows the dog a high degree of success while working at his own level of competence, "losing" (or being wrong) is minimized, which in turn minimizes the dog wanting to quit (this works for humans too, by the way).  

The trainer all but guarantees the dog’s success by raising criteria in small but measurable increments and then reinforcing each high or correct level of performances as it’s offered.

Behaviors to train in preparation for a move abroad

When we move to a new city with our dog it's helpful to have a repertoire of  already-trained skills under their belt in order to make the transition and the journey itself easier for all involved.  Here is a list of skills and behaviors that are worthy of your training efforts BEFORE you make the move:

crate training and noisy travel, being wheeled on a cart while inside the crate.   

riding politely and without fear in elevators

cafe skills (lying quietly under your chair for long periods of time, tolerating boredom, ignoring wait staff and other people who walk by, ignoring other dogs)

Walking by your side, not way out in front of you and never on a flexi leash! (urban environments).

Eliminating with a cue (permission to eliminate)

Walking on new surfaces (cobblestones, slippery floors, textured rubber mats)

Vet exam and handling skills

Remaining calm even though he can see another dog (ie, not automatically assuming it's ok to visit the other dog-- again, urban skills)

Fireworks, construction noise, loud beeps from moving vehicles, thunder and lightening, increased exposure to new sounds, 

Polite car travel, entering and exiting a car/van on cue, and waiting for that cue.

Laying on a mat on command (I think of this as "parking my dog" - we used a yellow dish towel, which is very portable and washable.  Having a reliable, long down-stay on this towel is helpful in many situations-- as is a reliable long down-stay in general.  Highly recommended.  I find in highly distracting (potentially confusing) environments that pulling out the familiar yellow dish towel almost serves as an anchor to reassure my dog that yes, I do want him on that spot.) 

Which skills might you want to work on with your dog next?  

DIRTY FEET

 This morning my dog and my husband returned from their walk, and my dog's feet had gotten quite dirty from wet dirt/mud along the way.  

It can be helpful to keep a small spray bottle of water and an old rag or towel by the door so you can gently hold each paw and bend it back (like it would move if your dog was walking) and spray it generously with the water to loosen up the dirt.  Then you can more easily wipe it clean without having to press so hard and vigorously on your dog's sensitive feet.  

I know some people keep baby wet wipes by the door for cleaning the paws before coming inside, too.  I have not tried that as I suspect my dog will lick the cleanser off his feet but I know this method works for a lot of people.  

There's also a product (which I don't have) which is like a silicone can with soft silicone spikes inside it.  You put a bit of water or soapy water in it, and one at a time you dunk each paw in there a few times to "scrub" it clean.  I'm curious to try this someday!

WHERE TO TRAIN YOUR DOG

When your dog is doing well with a behavior at home and it's time to increase the distraction level a bit, start by going into a new location in your home.  That's a baby step (and you would be surprised how it changes the context for your dog and can make it harder for him).

When we live in a more urban environment (like I do now) it can be REALLY hard to find places outside the home that would be considered a "baby step up" in distraction.  It's like going from a quiet room to a chaotic nightclub with disco lights and crazy costumes and loud music and strong smells!  Our poor dogs barely stand a chance.  So be on the lookout for good training locations that are quiet, without other dogs present, without any people (or if there are a few people, they are not moving quickly and they're leaving you alone).  

It can help a lot to take your dog there a few times without the hope of training just to let him get acclimated to the new environment.  Then, when you DO try to train there, have REALLY high value treats with you the first few times, so the dog builds what I like to think of as a "behavior muscle" of being successful in that new environment.  Train there repeatedly on different days (with the same level of distraction).  Here's a video of a local (to Setubal, Portugal) location that is good for training (when your dog is ready). https://youtu.be/yoaHbrlNFc4?si=-MKofDbDR-hK0bjF 

 

What? My dog has a poop score?

 Yes, your dog has a poop score.  Purina has published a very helpful visual (sorry) guide to let you know whether your dog's poop is indicative of a healthy digestive system and whether the food he's eating is being digested well. 

I've worked in humane societies as a trainer and every time we took a dog out for a potty walk we had to log (on a large chart listing each kennel, with a row for each dog) whether that dog peed (and at what time), and if he pooped we had to score the poop based on this chart.  It was incredibly effective to help us get an early warning if one of the dogs was perhaps not doing well.  If the score hit a 5 we alerted the feeding, dog-walk and training teams, and if it progressed to a 6 we called in medical help to examine the dog more closely.  I am incredibly grateful for the amazing resources we have in our humane society shelters in the USA, and for the way they share "best practices" so all the shelters can learn how to be better. 

That's how important the consistency of your dog's poop is.  You want it to score a 2.  

So if your dog's poop is scoring a 5, the diet is not optimal and/or there may be a parasite or some other issue.  Your dog might need more fiber (some cooked veggies added to the food can help).  I can't troubleshoot it for you here, but you should know these indicators of digestive health.  It impacts your dog's vitality, ability to concentrate and learn, and his overall quality of life.

I am attaching a link here to the Fecal Score Chart.  You're welcome.